Glamour Magazine Ad Banned As "Irresponsible" For Featuring 'Unhealthily Underweight' Model

An ad seen in Glamour Magazine for Condé Nast Traveller has been banned by the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) for featuring a model that looks "unhealthily thin." 

The the advert, featuring a slim female model posing on a beach, came to the ASA’s attention after a Glamour reader issued a formal complaint to the ASA challenging whether "the ad was socially irresponsible."

In the ASA's ruling published today, the regulator found that the ad breached rules regarding responsible advertising and has banned the advert for appearing again “in its current form” and called on the publishers to “ensure that in the future their ads were prepared responsibly.”

In response to the complaint: "Condé Nast Traveller Magazine said that their ‘postcard of the day’ feature (shown above) was a tool used to engage with current readers and newcomers to their website...the image in the ad was a still taken during a fashion shoot for a feature aimed at an older audience of Traveller readers. They said that particular image...was chosen for this ad as it evoked a mood of escapism, with the model shown stretching towards the sun....they acknowledged that the model’s stance accentuated her height and slender legs but said that there were no protruding bones and that the model was naturally slim and in proportion."

In the decision, the ASA: "acknowledged that the ad was for a travel magazine and that its focus was not supposed to be on the model or her clothes; however...considered that the model was the focal point of the image, therefore...concluded that the ad made the model look unhealthily thin and that the ad was irresponsible."

In their assessment, the regulator took particular issue with way in which: "the model’s pose and the particular lighting effect in the ad drew particular focus to the model’s chest, where her rib cage was visible" and "to her legs, where her thighs and knees appeared a similar width, and which looked very thin."  Concluding that "the model appeared unhealthily underweight in the image."

Complaints about ads promoting irresponsible body image tend to focus on the thinness of the model used in the ad, and these complaints are considered in light of the Code rules on social responsibility that require that marketing communications are prepared with a sense of responsibility to consumers and to society.

In reponse, Glamour Magazine has held that: "internal house advertisements are run in good faith and...they did not believe the shape of the model was very relevant to the ad as a whole." However stating that: "they...would take care when reviewing ad choices in the future."

Marketing and promotion is big business in the fashion realm and brands are coming under increased scrutiny by the ASA for ads that objectify or inappropriately sexualize people including ads which suggest that it’s acceptable for young women to be unhealthily thin.

In 2016, a Gucci ad was banned by the ASA for the use of thin models, though the Italian fashion house argued that perception of thinness was subjective.

In another recent ruling, an ad for Yves Saint Laurent, which featured an image of a model lying on the floor with her hands on her head, was considered socially irresponsible for depicting a model who appeared to be unhealthily thin. This was because the lighting in the ad drew attention to her chest, where her ribcage appeared prominent, and to her legs, where the large platform shoes she was wearing created a contrast with, and accentuated the thinness of her thighs. (Yves Saint Laurent SAS, 15 June 2015).

UK advertising expenditure is around £21.4bn. From a commercial perspective, advertising campaigns are costly - so when depicting a model, it is worth brands thinking about the ad as a whole to avoid the costs of having to pull a campaign.

However, as the ASA notes, it’s important to make clear that:  "whilst the ASA does uphold ads which depict models in a way which makes them appear unhealthily thin, the use of thin models itself is not automatically considered socially irresponsible." In 2014, a complaint about an ad for Yves Saint Laurent was not upheld because, whilst the model in the ad was wearing a short dress which revealed very long and slim legs, her legs appeared to be in proportion with her body and did not appear to be unhealthily thin. (Yves Saint Laurent SAS 07 May 2014)."

The ASA has also recently introduced (earlier this year) a tougher line on ads that feature stereotypical gender roles or characteristics in a report on Gender Stereotyping called “Depictions, Perceptions and Harm”, which provides an evidence-based case for stronger regulation of ads that feature stereotypical gender roles or characteristics that might cause harm which comes as additional thing for brands to think about when marketing, communicating and promoting ads on or off-line.

British Model Adwoa Aboah Subject Of Brewing Modelling Agencies' Legal Battle

                Photo credit: Dazed Media Photographer Paul Maffi, courtesy of Adwoa Aboah

According to reports a legal battle is brewing between rival modelling agencies The Lions and DNA Model Management over the British model and activist Adwoa Aboah.

In a lawsuit filed (this month) in Manhattan Supreme Court, The Lions claims that Aboah recently asked to be released early from her three-year contract after being recruited by DNA Model Management, cofounder David Bonnouvrier.

The Lions says that it penned a deal with Aboah in 2015 when she had “virtual no modeling fees" and was relatively unknown in the modeling industry. Two years later, “Aboah was one of the top models in the United States,” the suit says.

During her time with The Lions, Aboah got her first Vogue cover shoot, (alongside Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner) and since, has been booked for high-profile shows such as Dior’s London Fashion Week show, this months recent Burberry show during London Fashion Week and has modelled in campaigns for Calvin Klein, H&M, as well as the likes of Fendi, Alexander Wang among others.

Daughter of Camilla Lowther, founder of the high profile CLM Agency, one of the most influential management agencies that represents creatives across the fashion editorial industry, including photographers Tim Walker and Juergen Teller.  

Particularly of concern in the suit is Aboah’s mother Lowther - whom The Lions claim “intentionally and improperly” induced Aboah’s breach of her contract. Lowther “made a deal for Aboah to be represented by DNA,” the suit says, even though her daughter’s contract with the Lions doesn’t expire until January 2018.

The Lions pointed out that Aboah’s mother Lowther is a personal friend of Bonnouvrier, and claimed that he told the agency that Lowther is “very powerful in the fashion industry” and if Aboah was not released from her contract, she would “attempt to harm the Lions business,” according to the complaint.

According to reports, Aboah contacted her Lions reps in August to tell them she wanted to leave, despite stating earlier in July 2017 that she was “very happy...and her loyalty was with [The Lions]" the suit says.

On the recent announcement made this month of Aboah being represented by DNA. Lions contacted Bonnouvrier and a lawyer for Aboah informing them that the agency expected her “to fulfill her [contractual] obligations.”  The suit goes onto claim that: “The Lions was in the middle of negotiation deals that would generate substantial fees for both Aboah and The Lion.”

The lawsuit made out is for unspecified damages. Lowther, Bonnouvrier and DNA are all defendants. The British Model Aboah is not being sued.